Relish Cooking

Do you ever feel like making something really big out of something really little? Ever get the urge to take the virtually insignificant and find a way produce an end result of pomp display? Sometimes it just feels good to climb a hill and die on it, to make a big deal out of nothing, and even get a little attention out of it, I think you all know what I mean. But don’t worry, I’ve been a witness AND participant myself lately.

To offer you an example you may be able to relate with, and my 10-year-old son will kill me for publicizing this, last week he had a little accident (he fell into some soft grass while playing ball with friends, bruising nothing more than an ego). Suddenly, his eyes were twitching from “the pain” and he felt very “dizzy and tired.” As a matter of fact, the “headache” he was experiencing was so bad, he talked daddy into driving him to the Emergency Room to get “concussion X-rays.” As it turns out, he ended up leaving the ER just before getting admitted, stating that he was “feeling much better, and maybe just a movie and ice cream would help” Now, I can’t be sure, but I’m thinking that this near-death experience may have been a tiny bit exaggerated to save a little face??

In the Relish world, my “little” sabotage of late was taking a decent bottle of chardonnay and a beautiful chunk of Italian Pecorino and making dinner out of it. You’re thinking, “awww, how nice…she treated herself to a chilled glass of wine and nibbled on cheese and grapes, maybe even flipped a dollar at Trader Joe’s for a wedge of 72% dark chocolate.” NOPE. The buck didn’t stop there – I decided to take my two ingredients and turn them orchestrally, methodically, neurotically into a 20-ingredient French Bouillabaisse over the next four hours! You see, someone had challenged my culinary competence, and I was about to show them…show the WORLD (or at least my kids) what I could do with my cast iron!

How good it felt to make the 30-minute drive to Whole Foods and walk through the Fruit de la Mer section, carefully select fresh-caught fillets of Sea Bass and Monkfish …then watch the fish guy carefully wrap them up, along with a pound each of clams, mussels, scallops and prawn into pretty parcels for me. You’ll also understand that to mosey-on-over to the herbs and spices only to procure a beautiful batch of large-leaf thyme and 2 grams of Moroccan Saffron rivaled any romantic walk down a Provencal cobblestone abbey. ANYway, after sautéing, reducing and “happy simmering” (we never boil, remember?), I don’t mind telling you that the delicious outcome of this manual labor surely showed them!! All 3 of them. Especially the 8-year old who had corndogs instead.

The moral of the story is, life offers us millions of little daily details, and its up to each us to make something, anything, out of them, and sometimes, contradictory the general suggestion that there are ‘bigger fish to fry’…its just okay to make a mountain out of a molehill…so tonight, why not try constructing an Herbed Duck Caesar Salad out of a sardine and see how it serves up?

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When I left a foggy, frigid France a few weeks ago, I boarded the plane with my head hung low for two main reasons...another year without our sister, who insists that studying International Business in Paris is far more interesting than it would be here at, say, Cal State Fullerton or UCI… and (I thought) another hot, dry California winter to look forward to. Great. The latter is a total perplexity for us cooks…”how to make Marsala-Braised Shortrib Stew or Slow-Roasted Cauliflower Soup work in 87-degree heat” is without a doubt, a true test of culinary credo. But much to my surprise AND delight…I learned that while I had been braving a rainy London & chilly Paris in head-to-toe wool, our little Coto Valley was actually turning green…jewel-toned, down-to-the root GREEN! It had actually been downpouring in Biblical proportion, and suddenly, I became ecstatic at the possibly of exiting the plane donning a pair of sheep (sheepskin boots, that is!)

And so today, with winter officially trailing behind us and a very wet spring making its beautiful, jaded entrance, good belly-warming meals are Promised to stick around at least until the ark is unpacked. Thank the Almighty, there’s still time to hunt around for, and enjoy, the blessing of cold-weather ingredients like (sorry, Noah) duck, goose, quail, pork & turkey…still time to forage the misty farmer’s market for local legumes, squash, cranberries, apples, citrus and more, but are you wondering if its possible to prepare these fabulous items without a cornucopia adorning the table or presents under a tree? True, it’s certainly not white outside, and not yet a sunny spring, but the cooking miracles that can occur here in this purgatory season is entirely left to your imagination, and my advice to you is personal and precise and you may not like it, but I want you all to just stuff it!

Alright, let me explain…what I’m talking about is a food prep of infinite possibility that takes a mundane table squash and turns it into a delicious work of art when hollowed, filled with (of course) squash, dried apricots, Israeli couscous & goat cheese, then baked to a creamy perfection! Or take duck breast, for instance (I can assure you that to take the drive down to Whole Foods once, is to never shop the same again!) Anyways, the bird gets sliced to form a nice pocket, in goes a medley of minced Thai chili, mint, scallions, ginger, garlic, Chinese 5-spice, peanut oil & Panko bread crumbs. Wrap it up with twine, glaze with Sour Cherry-Szechwan Peppercorn reduction, roast for 20 minutes and... kung pao! Impressive and exotic dinner! Chef’s note: A side of garlic-sautéed Pea Shoots stuffed in a steamed wonton with a Hoisin dipping sauce would work well with that. Oh, and while stowing delicacies in savory vessels, don’t forget to stuff your sweet heart out with finales like a crunchy Pink Lady apple cored and stuffed with oats, brown sugar, butter, flour, a pinch of salt and lots of raspberries. Bake at 350˚ for 45 minutes and you are a Stuffing Superhero!

Art thou beginning to see the rainbow here? Because with clear skies dangerously ahead, I urge you to take shelter in these comforts, my friend. Take what beautiful bounty you find and scour your pantry and fridge for things to put in. Put a red bell pepper lid on it (if it’s stuffed with diced shiitake, chicken & Forbidden Rice) then simply bake, steam, fry, sauté or roast it (whatever “it” may be) to glorious perfection. Verily, verily, I say unto you, this will surely get you through the flood. Bon Apetit!

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Contemplating my New Years Resolutions, I look out the window …its still dark outside and the rising steam from my coffee puts me in an early-morning trance as I watch it twirl upward. Suddenly, I feel the dull ache of deja-vu as I remember a similar swirling pattern of a latte I had in Paris with my sister nearly a year ago. A YEAR AGO?? Then it all rushes back in a mili-flash – two additional trips overseas, 42 cooking classes, an entire Jr. Pee Wee (football) season and my daughter’s Senior Portraits. Now that I think about it, its actually been well over a year since the birth of Ana Nicole’s daughter and the death of Steve Irwin. And who is that blonde standing next to my husband in last year’s New Years Eve pictures? Looks like me, but so much younger! Or were those from the year before? Its all such a blur. I scratch my head and wistfully ponder the same thing I’m sure many of you are right now…isn’t there some way to slow it all down?

With our health and well-being in mind, we made vows and promises to join a “small group,” give up drinking (except for wine, of course…good for the heart) and trade the H2 in for electric…admirable proclamations that would make our lives better…that would make us better people. We inked good intentions to lose weight & save money on the back of our cocktail napkins at midnight but the truth is, winter was too cold, summer was too hot and the holidays came too fast. Tragic loss even struck many of us, involuntarily triggering that pesky clock to hit fast forward at Mach speed and ultimately those resolutions, so earnestly pledged, just never got any allegiance!

That said, I would however (generally being of the stemmed glass-half-full nature), like to pay homage to 2008 by focusing on some very good news. First and most importantly, we somehow made it through this year and have another whole one to look forward to starting at this very minute! Next, guilt is a quality that you alone can easily stop in its tracks…I don’t see failing to keep a resolution actual failure, per se, so much as a procrastination of a very good and healthy intent that we simply haven’t gotten around to executing just yet. And finally, having let you off the hook a bit leads me to the last (and best) point here, there is actually one particular resolution that is so easy to achieve, you can scratch it off the list after just one phone call! It’s a resolution that will make not only your life better, but the lives of those around you richer, healthier and far more interesting. You will leave the experience more knowledgeable and with a better sense of what is good for your family, your body AND the planet. I am, of course, recommending that you take a Relish Cooking Class. The audacity! She’s plugging her business, and I won’t keep reading this nonsense! But I believe you are curious to know how it could possibly be true – how learning to cook, taking a class no less, could possibly enrich your life…a life that I know nothing about.

You see, I believe everyone can, and should learn to be a better cook by first understanding the importance of a meal. A meal is a daily affair that happens at a central place with the people you love and care about, and once you understand the enormous potential of that anything-but-mundane event, you are ready to learn how to make that precious slice of time better. By taking time to understand and carefully hand-select the ingredients that go into each meal, you can then feel excited about the methodical effort that ensues, as quick or involved as that may be. Beginning with elements such as fresh, organic produce; meats raised locally without the use of hormones or fillers; even sustainably-grown seafood; then adding a dash of a secret treasure you discovered in that gourmet market in San Francisco or Laguna Beach – even Trader Joe's (like smoky paprika or white truffle oil) sounds so exotic, but with a little instruction and a breath of boldness, Mac-n-Cheese becomes “A Truffled Trio of Fromage with Lobster.” Cook time 30 minutes. Cost 30 dollars. Look on the kids faces as they break through the crunchy topping…priceless.

So, all marketing efforts aside, whether you choose to book a Relish Cooking class, or just take the time one evening to read through a few favorite cookbook recipes, with minimal effort and zero guilt, you have successfully begun the New Year making, and keeping your first official resolution. Bon Apetit!

LOBSTER MAC-N-CHEESE WITH CRUNCHY PANKO CRUST
(serve with ’04 Shramsberg Blanc de Blancs sparkling wine OR apple juice)

MAC-N-CHEESE - INGREDIENTS
1 cup small elbow pasta
1 tablespoon salt in 5 cups water
3 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons flour
¼ cup milk
½ tsp. truffle oil
5 oz extra sharp cheddar, graded
¾ cup fresh, cooked chunks of lobster
Olive oil
4 8-oz ramekins

WHITE PEPPER & THYME PANKO CRUNCH - INGREDIENTS
1 cup Japanese (panko) breadcrumbs
3 tablespoons butter
1 teaspoon of fresh ground white pepper
¼ teaspoon ground thyme

INSTRUCTIONS
Turn oven on to 450˚. Bring water to a boil, add salt and pasta. Cook for about 15 minutes or until a bit softer than al dente. Drain and set aside in colander. Melt 3 tbsp. butter over medium heat, stir in flour and milk (this makes a roux). Stir until silky smooth. Stir in truffle oil, then begin adding grated cheese, a little at a time until melted and smooth. Gently fold in lobster then pasta, coating with cheese sauce well. In small saucepan, melt 3 tablespoons butter, add breadcrumbs, thyme and pepper. Mix well. Put ¼ mixture in each ramekin, top with breadcrumbs, bake for 15 min.

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Have you ever been on a date and mused, perhaps over a Spicy Soft-Shell Crab or a Poached Pear bathed in Sweet Ginger-Honey, at what exactly it is, that makes a great restaurant’s food so darn great? Do you ever catch yourself discreetly licking the tiny plate they call “Thai Trio” all-the-while wondering how the heck they got fresh-picked mangos, 3-pounds of green tea and say, sea salt to look, feel and taste better than any sorbet you’ve ever had? If something along the lines of “who wants to know?!” is your initial reaction, chances are at some point, evading waiters and police, you’ve smuggled the back of your napkin home, scratched by dim candlelight with what you are certain is the blueprint to that evening’s Hoisin Shortribs. “Hmm, soy sauce, brown sugar, and I swear that’s a hint of coriander, but there’s something else…I’ll take a to-go box and figure it out!” Sound familiar?

If this type of crookery is becoming an obsession to duplicate fine cookery, I’m here to hunt you down! Don’t worry, …your secret is good with me, I’d simply like to offer my help to evolve your efforts into something a bit more fruitful by unveiling a few of the Hautest restaurant’s hottest secrets. While I won’t be able to expose all the sweet and savory 411 (you’ll have to read Anthony Bourdain’s “Kitchen Confidential” to go there), I will tell you that there’s more to excellent cuisine than 2 pounds of butter, preheated plates and a pretty garnish.

So here you have it: from Mexican to French, Steakhouses to Asian Fusion, Laguna cafes to L.A.’s five-star dining, brilliant chefs are out there scouring local and distant terrains to acquire the freshest, healthiest, tastiest (and often, most unheard of) ingredients they can find to set their menus apart. But here’s the real genius – so can you!! Artisan Cheeses from central California dairies like Cowgirl Creamery; poultry, pork and beef from Niman Ranch just north of San Francisco; vine-ripened strawberries and other fresh, organic seasonal produce from UCI’s Farmers Market or in Irvine; line-caught (not farmed or netted) fresh seafood from the cleanest waters in the world found at Santa Monica Seafood in Newport Beach and of course my newest fave - organically produced wines from our very own world-renowned Napa Valley…all just a quick drive (or quick click) away. To add but one special delicacy to your kitchen from any of these marvelous purveyors is to add a little Celine Dion to your church choir!

The goods @ UCI Farmer's Market, every Saturday

And speaking of church, part of the joy I get in teaching cooking classes is preaching what I practice; sharing little bits of things I actually do in my home if I think it may bring value to your home. For example, in last week’s Sushi Class, a simple torn Shiso leaf added to a Vegetable hand roll, or bit of Truffle Oil whisked into Ponzu Sauce immensely elevated the expected flavor.. I can tell you that many students from that class are now big fans of “Mitsuwa” of Costa Mesa ($1.08 for 12 fresh Shiso leaves) as well as Trader Joes (where you can buy a bottle of Truffle Oil for under $9).

So, as you strive to re-create a tasty salmon, or spicy fajitas in your home, I challenge you look outside the box (a.k.a. supermarket) to discover new and exciting ingredients at the same time, support your local farms and smaller grocers who are working hard to bring you better bounty. I’m hoping you’ll enjoy the adventure, too! Here are more places I often go to find that “something else” - Bristol Farms, Whole Foods, Mission Viejo's Pavilions, Henry’s Market, Williams-Sonoma, El Toro Gourmet Meats and Nina’s Indian Market in Lake Forest, just to name a few.

Here's the recipe for my delicious “Thai Hot & Sour Soup with Poached Prawn” which may just nudge you out to Mitsuwa for an ingredient or two…Happy hunting!!

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Meals shouldn’t always be just about the food. Quality fare has its pleasurable benefits, don’t get me wrong. Indulging in a fine cut of tenderloin or traveling to a farmer’s market for the freshest fruit requires passion, to be sure, but there is so much more to our daily refueling than superior ingredients. For example, there is history to just about everything we eat...fascinating facts about the countries and people where our food comes from, how they prepare and eat their food as well as what else they do at their meal…and it would only require a few minutes to uncover (and share) some of this with your family! Next time you serve Chinese food, consider a bit of table trivia by having everyone guess how many languages there are in China (236) or how the Chinese eat their meals (with spoons, bowls and squared chopsticks – Japanese chopsticks are rounded – and never with a fork or knife – bad luck!) This simple fun can bring you a bit closer to another world while enjoying their culture’s cuisine

Two years ago, my entire family came together as we cared for our mother, who became ill with cancer. Mom and dad moved in with us, and quickly our home became the hub. Suddenly, “family night” was a more of a daily celebration, and cooking became so much more than just a chore…meal-duties were carried out with pride, enthusiasm and great thought. Mondays and Wednesdays, my brother, his wife and kids would come armed with fresh-baked breads and pastas, on Tuesdays and Saturdays my twin sisters usually came bearing delicious restaurant take-out. And of course, the other days were my golden opportunity to test new ideas and recipes on a dozen unsuspecting culinary victims.

It was a huge honor for us to do the care-giving during this time; but, a mother is always a mother, and one day, ours pulled a fast one! It wasn’t easy, but she managed to host an Indian-style evening for us, covering every detail.

First she ordered piles of delectable foreign delights from our dear friend Praveen at Irvine’s Clay Oven…from Rice Pilau and Naan to Chicken Tikka Masala and Aloo Gobi with a sauce so spicy some still suffer collateral damage. Next, during dinner, a little Indian Q & A, and finally, we experienced a bit of “Baliwood.” Mom had carefully chosen a movie that the entire family had so much fun watching, I have no choice but to recommend it (Lagaan). In fact, I am recommending that you try this entire evening with your family! Kids can discover a bit of culture, your palettes will be opened to new and exotic, but REALLY pleasing flavors, and who can resist enjoying entertainment suitable for the young and old, which is all too rare these days.

That evening we all laughed, ate great food, and someone even announced that chess, algebra and trigonometry all originated in India. Then a fine cinematic moment topped off the evening as we crowded in the darkened living room together. It was an experience we’ll remember for years to come, and one that we have our mom to thank for.

Posted by ChefHeidi at 10:52 PM | Permalink | Comments (3) | TrackBacks (0)

An amazing thing happens in January throughout Southern California, and notably here in Coto de Caza…it gets, and usually stays cold! Not freezing, as many of us dream of walking out our doors in a long wool coat and scarf to the gentle patter of snowflakes, but certainly chilly enough to drive home with the seat-heaters on, push-start our gas-burning fireplace, grab a decorative “throw” off a sofa and curl up with a good book in hand. Yes, those are the ingredients to gear up for our long winter nights.

But wait! I can’t say the word, “ingredients” without filling your other hand with a tasty, piping hot treat; a treat to fill your home with the wafting aromas of everything good and everything cozy. A treat that serves its purpose night after nippy night, only to be replaced by another version of itself as soon as it is fully consumed…a treat that satisfies the hungriest, pickiest, most elementary or elegant palate, and nothing - shy of a warm loaf of bread - need keep it company. What, prey, is this elusive element? None other than the glorious pot (PLEASE invest in le Creuset) of home-made, tummy-warming flavory-savory soup!

Yes, everyone is doing it, and you can, too! You won’t need to spend hours meandering through cookbooks, and you don’t need an arsenal of expensive ingredients. In fact, you’ll find that even the least experienced kitchens can produce their own fabulous version of this recipe and, here’s my favorite part…cream does not have to be your friend! (but maybe “acquaintance” might be nice!)

Perhaps you are even a member of the low-fat-low-calorie-low carb club? Hollywood & South Beach have nothing on Coto de Caza! I’ve posted my favorite healthy concoction for a soup so delicious and filling that you (and your teenage daughter) will forget that it is chock-full of protein, iron and vitamins, and is the perfect lunch and dinner meal to help you shed a few of last month’s pounds. But let me warn you - make a big batch, as the other half of your family will devour it for its flavor-value. Fresh herbs and vegetables with a good dose of lean ground turkey is really all that’s involved. Here's the recipe:

Posted by ChefHeidi at 08:59 PM | Permalink | Comments (6) | TrackBacks (0)